It is (and this is rare) as fine at 11am as it is at 11pm. Its unique concept has kept Dishoom in headlights in London, some years after it first opened on St Martin’s Lane. All-day cafés in Bombay were social hubs for all walks of life from rich to poor, who would eat informally from dawn to dusk. Though in Bombay the cafés are dwindling, the same food culture exists today. Once you’re in, Dishoom is designed like the Bombay Cafes of the mid Twentieth Century, where all walks of life ate and drank together away from the heat, and the burdens of the day. Their soft launches are like two weeks of Christmas time for the cities’ foodie set, so be prepared for a wait. A word of advice: before going to Dishoom dig out your Wimbledon Guide to Queuing (perhaps this most British thing we own). To fans of eating and drinking in London, and to those used to queuing at buzzy soft launches, this one needs little introduction. Dishoom Carnaby is on soft launch until October 14th with 50% off food.
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